The Portland Logbook #4

When Ice Ruled Portland ❄️

Before refrigerators, before ice cubes clinked in cocktails, Portland was in the ice business. Not in a small way—in a “we’re shipping frozen blocks to the Caribbean” kind of way.

Winters back then weren’t just cold, they were profitable. Sebago Lake, the Kennebec River, Clark’s Pond and Barberry Creek in South Portland transformed into seasonal gold mines. Crews of men with horse-drawn saws, wooden sleds, and pure grit cut massive blocks from the ice, packed them in sawdust, and sent them off by train or schooner.

A Brutal Job, A Booming Trade

The work wasn’t for the weak. One wrong step and you weren’t just cold—you were in the lake, getting fished out with a hooked pole before frostbite set in. But the pay was decent, and for many, this was the only winter work in town.

David Robinson, one of Portland’s first ice entrepreneurs, started small. In 1823, he dug a 10x8-foot ice cellar on Munjoy Hill, storing just enough to keep his confectionery business running (and, fun fact, making him one of Portland’s first people to serve ice cream). By the mid-1800s, icehouses were stacking thousands of tons of ice, and names like D.W. Clark & Co. took over, cutting and shipping frozen slabs by the thousands.

By 1881, the Clark and Chaplin icehouse in South Portland could hold 40,000 tons of ice, enough to keep a city cool through summer. Imagine a four-story building, filled floor-to-ceiling with frozen blocks, packed in sawdust like insulation. This was Portland’s version of a deep freezer.

The End of the Ice Empire

For decades, Portland ice was a sought-after commodity. But as the 1900s rolled in, so did change. Warmer winters meant thinner ice, and then, the real killer—electric refrigeration. Manufactured ice was cheaper, easier, and didn’t require a team of men sawing through a frozen lake.

By 1906, Barberry Creek’s last major harvest was over. By the 1950s, ice harvesting was gone. And in 1962, the South Portland Fire Department burned down the last standing icehouse, a final farewell to an industry that once kept the city cool.

From Ice Blocks to Cocktails

These days, the closest we get to Maine’s ice trade is the perfectly clear cubes in a good cocktail. Which raises an important question—who’s serving the best cocktails in Portland right now? Let me know where to go next, and maybe I’ll do a deep dive into the city’s best hand-cut ice cocktails.

Where Should I Eat Next? Pai Men Miyake

There’s something about Pai Men Miyake that just feels right before you even take a bite. The dim lighting, the hum of conversation, the scent of slow-simmered broth and charred pork hanging in the air—it all sets the stage.

I’ve been here before, always for the Paitan ramen—that rich, velvety broth that coats your mouth and stays with you. According to my insider sources (😉), it’s a pain in the ass to make, using chicken feet, backs, and necks to pull out every bit of collagen. The result? A broth so thick and satisfying, you forget about everything else.

But this time, I went for the Katsudon—a crispy, golden pork cutlet over rice, bathed in dashi-soaked egg with shiitake mushrooms (which, honestly, I could eat a million of) and scallions. The kind of dish that feels like home-cooked comfort food, but better. First bite? Pure warm, rich, satisfying comfort.

And if you go, Don’t skip the brussels sprouts. Tossed in gochujang, crispy, caramelized, and apparently the staff’s go-to shift meal for a reason. Oh, and the pork buns, Soft, packed with slow-cooked pork belly, and impossible to eat just one. Or five.

So, should you go? Yes. Should you get extra noodles? Always. Should you order the Katsudon? No question.

Where Next?

I asked my waitress where I should go next, and she suggested Wayside Tavern. Am I mad about it? No. I’ve been there more times than I can count—but I also refuse to influence the suggestions I get. So either I have great taste, or people just keep recommending the best spots.

🐾 Adoptable Buddies of the Week! 🐾

This week, we’ve got Uncle Peanut, a big, sweet 83-lb guy who just wants a calm home and a little patience to come out of his shell, and Amren, a smart, sniffy hound mix who’s ready for adventure with the right people.

No bunnies, chickens, or mice this week! 🐶 If you know a local rescue I should feature, let me know.

🐕 Interested? Check them out here